Tongue

When the Thai people say the name tung thong, they make the sound of two bells ringing in the throat. If you've never had tung thong—particularly from the Thai Landing in Baltimore—don't let the name of the dish dissuade you. Or the description: fried bean curd sacks stuffed with chicken and chopped nuts.

My first time was my first visit. And I can't think of a time in over a hundred that I didn't hear its name repeated, like those ringing bells, by a short, black-haired waiter (usually named Charlie). Tung tong is dipped in a sweet peanut sauce. It's my first aphrodisiac. It makes my mouth hum and my soul sing. No wonder Siam is "the land of smiles."